The Bias Cut is a special way of cutting the fabric, when patterns are placed on diagonal direction of the material, which allows cut out pieces to be stretchy in both directions: vertical and horizontal.
It creates effect of seamless flow along the body, beautiful soft draping and flatters every type of figure.
Madeleine Vionnet was the pioneer of the bias cut. She worked like a sculptor I order to achieve her aims. By draping fabric around small wooden dolls she invented the ingenious cut.
She rose to fame in 1920ties, in times when women were liberated from corsets and bulky, heavy skirts. She had fabrics produced two yards wider than usual, so that she could cut them on the bias, and in 1918 special material was developed for her—Rosalba crepe made of silk and acetate (one of the first synthetics)
Madeleine Vionnet knew that her technique was unique, so she documented her designs in 75 copyright albums. Up to this day designers can’t grasp the mystery of her cut.
Compared to Coco Chanel, Madeleine Vionnet is virtually an unknown today.
Perhaps this is because she produced the Rolls-Royces of the couture, whereas Chanel’s designs succeeded as the popular Fords of the fashion.
Here is a bias cut dress then and now, created in our workshop